GQ’s Creative Director takes the pulse of Milan Fashion Week:
I’m reminded of something that happened in the mid ‘90’s when speaking with Mr. Armani: he questioned whether a tie would still be relevant in a modern man’s wardrobe. Based on the ones we saw at his Giorgio Armani show, in a collection more relevant than ever, they still are. Everything in menswear is in a twenty-year cycle, but I really think people are afraid of the tie right now. So many people have mastered the art of wearing one, and wearing it in different, more robust ways that designers on the runway feel like showing it is a cop-out. Milanese designers want more and more to be known as créateurs as well as master tailors.
So what do the designers do with sartorial ideas? They get put it in the Cuisinart, which is what Miuccia Prada did by taking the most casual thing possible, a Polynesian or Hawaiian print shirt, and paired with something sartorial. I think she really hit the nail on the head because she took those pinstriped, double-breasted jackets and she had fun with them. She mixed up the pants. But she admitted backstage that she put women in the show to make the men look exciting. She’s thinks that men are a bit boring right now and I think she was making a statement about fashion in general: everyone’s kind of grabbing for straws.
"One of the highlights for me from Johan Lindeberg’s BLK DNM line is the amazing leather bomber jackets he consistently turns out each season. What’s even more impressive is that Johan has literally taken that luxe piece and translated it, almost exactly, for this Best New Menswear Designers in America collaboration. It’s a piece that’s not only on trend for the season, but incredibly versatile thanks to the removable mouton collar, and really a steal at $348. You can dress it up, with a shirt and tie, or down, with the best beat-up tee you own—but either way, you’re going to be wearing this until it falls apart."
—Jim Moore, creative director
Want to give your solid business suits a subtle lift? Get small with these tiny dot and check patterns. GQ Creative Director Jim Moore explains: “Put together shirts and ties that have really little dots or checks—which is usually a ‘don’t’ when you’re pattern mixing. From a distance, they appear to be solid, but when you’re up close, there is serious texture there.” See all of our favorites here.
Come holiday season, everyone is looking for a dress shirt to give the men in their lives. Tell your loved ones to look no further than this style from Calvin Klein… and if they’re looking for other gift tips, to let Jim Moore do their shopping for them.
Ready to bulk up? Do so without making yourself look like you have a gut. Jim Moore advises, “the pattern will add a bit of presence to your torso—the fact that it’s trimmed and not too bulky is the saving grace.” Check out this and more of our editor’s favorite things in this month’s edition of GQ Selects.